Posts Tagged ‘Fashion Focus Chicago’

The Art of Fashion

Monday, November 1st, 2010

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From left to right: designs by Lara Miller, Kirk James Collection and Borris Powell

Style Chicago capped off Fashion Focus with the final runway show of the week, The Art of Fashion. Like all the other shows before it, it compiled lots of local designers into a single production. As the name suggests, it fused fashion and art by combining established fashion houses and emerging talent, sprinkled with performance art. To start, the six established designers, including Lara Miller, Kirk James Collection, Paul Sisti, Lauren Lein, Borris Powell and Elda de la Rosa, presented their Spring 2010 collections. Then three emerging designers followed: Hector-Javier MonArrez, Lydia Wawrzyniak and Fraley Le.

After a theatrical introduction, the fashion creations paraded in front Chicago’s social scene. Of the six established, our favorites were Lara, Kirk James, Borris and Elda. Lara’s collection of casual knitted dresses and separates displayed her knack design that holds versatility and purpose. Kirk James showed us his flirty frocks, twist on basics and figure-flattering shapes—garments that transition effortlessly from day to night. Borris’ daywear and eveningwear was a rainbow-hued collection of jackets and dresses, including an unforgettable red cocktail dress with a voluminous tulle skirt. Finally, we saw Elda’s beautifully crafted couture. Another colorful display, her designs were suited for bridesmaids, dinner dates and galas.


From left to right: designs by Elda de la Rosa, Lydia Wawrzyniak and Hector-Javier MonArrez

After a rather awkward interception by a performance artist covered in a white sheet, it was the three emerging designers’ turn. Hector-Javier used blue and black to shade the masterfully constructed designs with pouf and pointed shoulders, oversized bows and shimmering sequins. Next was the show’s highlight: Lydia Wawrzyniak, who proved fashion is art. Her silk dresses were handmade with jaw-dropping detail, including structural tiered skirts and paper mache-like detail. Mark our words, these two designers will soon no longer be classified as “emerging.”

By Meghan Turner

Photography by Don Marshall

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Mario Makes a Model

Tuesday, October 26th, 2010

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The Mario, Make Me a Model finalists and Briana Smith, the winner

On Wednesday night, the Fashion Focus Chicago shows continued, and we took our place in the Millennium Park tent. The night’s presentation was “Mario, Make Me a Model,” a Project Runway-like competition with a twist. The designs were exclusively by local designers, but the focus was ultimately on the models. Instead of Heidi, Mario Tricoci helmed the project, and his team of hair and makeup artists made sure each model was runway ready. The five finalists were among the dozens of models who presented designs by Calvin Tran, reddoll by Tatyana Merenyuk, Jermikko, Zamrie and Dorisa.

Calvin Tran was the first to present, showing his slinky, liquidy fabrics that hugged the models’ bodies in all the right places. He fused sexy cuts with figure-flattering silhouettes for a collection that exuded class and femininity. Ashley Zygmunt’s label, Zamrie, was next. As usual, her separates were airy, girly and casual, always boasting her ladylike spin on classic shapes. The third designer in the line-up was Jermikko, who didn’t exactly take a clear direction. The designs haphazardly bounced from oddly constructed women’s suits to a funky-patterned metallic jumpsuit to an iridescent purple gown. Next was a unique fashion concept for the show: menswear. And, Dorsia impressed the hell out of us. Every piece fit like a dream and paid particular attention to how today’s men dress…or at least how they should. Ladies, buy this collection for the man in your life. Finally, reddoll by Tatyana Merenyuk closed the show.  Showing only dresses, the designs were immaculately detailed, the construction outstanding. Our only complaint is that she opened with a shortened version of a Balenciaga-like gown she showed last year.

At the close of the show, the five finalists did one last strut run down the catwalk. After many thank-yous by Mario, he announced the winner: Briana Smith. Donning a gorgeous red strapless gown by reddoll, she was presented a trophy in addition to a trip for two from Apple Vacations and a modeling contract with Ford.

By Meghan Turner

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CFI Presents at Fashion Focus

Sunday, October 24th, 2010

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From left: designs by C/FAN, Audey and Miriam Cecilia

Fashion Focus Chicago kicked off Tuesday night in Millennium Park with its first 2010 runway show. The evening belonged to the Chicago Fashion Incubator’s talented resident designers, who, as usual, didn’t disappoint. Before the show, a line of the city’s fashion advocates—stretching to the corner of Randolph and Michigan—waited anxiously to get a look at CFI’s latest creations. Inside we found a tent bursting at the seams with fashion insiders and fashion lovers, all thrilled to be a part of the electric festivities. After taking our seats, the show soon began with a warm welcome from designer and Executive Director of CFI Lara Miller and Andrea Schwartz, the VP of Media Relations from Macy’s, the show’s host. Then, the lights dimmed and DJ Sye provided the energetic musical accompaniment to the designs of 13 residents from this year and previous years.


From left: designs by Kristin Hassan and Evil Kitty

Kristin Hassan was the first to present, once again proving her knack for very feminine womenswear. We saw lots of polka dots and girly accents like lace and tulle on elaborate dresses and gowns. From where we sat, the construction looked fantastic, creating form-fitting and interestingly detailed designs. She topped off each look with accents such as tulle flower brooches and a new pom-pom approach to the giant floral headwear we remember from last year.

Next up were Kate Boggiano’s California girls. Donning oversized sunglasses and a daisy behind one ear, models sported summery separates, dresses and jackets. The silhouettes were simple and often structural, balanced with lavish details like draped and ruffle collars. A colorful palette appeared on solids and a few prints. Overall, it was a collection for a serious woman looking to bring out her sunnier disposition.

We know and love Evil Kitty for her punk-chic aesthetic, and that’s exactly what she showed us. Using soft fabrics with hard details, she created pieces like a flowy, silk tank dress anchored with a studded leather belt. We saw a black lace cocktail dress with royal blue lining and a very chic, Audrey Hepburn-ish pale blue mini dress. Other designs included a hot pink bolero with large spikes protruding from the back.


From left: designs by Anna Hovet and Kate Boggiano

Agga B. is one of our favorite Chicago designers. Her designs are chic, artistic and relevant, making them highly desirable to stylish urban-estas who are no strangers to high fashion. This collection fused the sophisticate and the femme fatale with pieces such as a tulip skirt with a fan of protruding wings around the backside. Agga’s color of choice is black, though hints of pale pink lighted the tone a bit. To cap off the collection, we saw a to-die-for sleeveless fur coat and a magnificent black LBD with gold beaded sleeves and fur trim on the shoulders.

Anna Hovet stuck with the basics for her latest collection. However, she put a casual 80s spin on the designs. Always pretty and girly, we saw a pastel blue skort with an asymmetrical skirt, barely there hemlines and loose-fitting cotton tanks. There were flowy trapeze dresses and a form-fitting black jumper with open slits on the back. Overall, we saw references to decades past that are definitely still au courant.

Woven design elements was the universal theme for Nora del Bursto. Mostly solids, there were a few odd prints thrown in for variety’s sake–many of which didn’t feel particularly reverent to current times. However, we did love the clean lines and attention to detail. A simple white sleeveless cocktail dress stood out with a single geometric, crisscross shoulder. The same was true of a black haulter dress with a crisscross neckline. Another black number had woven detail that ran down the torso, seemingly requiring a surgeon’s steady hand and patience to produce.


From left: designs by Agga B. and Nora del Busto

For a few minutes, Audey took us frolicking through Millennium Park. First, we saw an empire dress with a green floral print and sunshine yellow tulle underlay. Later, the same print appeared on a floor-length maxi that was positively delightful. Her lightheartedness continued onto other tops and dresses that displayed animal and bird prints.

Though we often take notice of C/FAN’s work, she pleasantly surprised us with this particular presentation. She’s known for her luxe basics in solid hues, but she’s obviously expanding beyond that. Pieces we expected were cropped silk tops with plunging necklines and tapered trousers with lovely draping at the hips. The unexpected came from sheer silk dresses—both body con and billowy—displaying a sunset and lone tree print.

Killian Gui made it clear he loves his men’s dress shirts. One after the other, button-ups paraded down the runway, presenting white ones, white ones with black sleeves, plaid ones, two-toned ones and others. So, I’m sad to say, nothing we haven’t seen before…many times. We could see Killian has serious construction talent, but we’d love to see a tad more variety.


From left: designs by Nonnie and Killian Gui

Next was Alidade, who left us with thoughts of summer in Nantucket. From khaki skirts to sky blue shorts to gray cardigans, the designs were simple and preppy. The fit looked fantastic, but we couldn’t help but wish for a little more detail than trim on some sleeves and oversized pockets. There were a few designs that had us craving a little more oomph, but others were right on mark.

From Nantucket prep to 30s pin-up, Dottie’s Delights immediately cranked up the heat. Her vintage-inspired lingerie was both sexy and glamorous, with waist clinchers and garters, thigh-high hose and haulter bras. There was flair that included French lace, velvet and hot pink sequins. These are definitely underthings that are meant to be seen.


From left: designs by Dottie’s Delights and Alidade

After Dottie’s lingerie glued men’s eyes glued to the runway, CFI gave them one final menswear presentation: Nonnie. Appealing to manly men and metros alike, this collection gave us basics and vision that fused the past and present. He nodded to the 50s army cadet with browns and taupes and the latest trends with details like skinny ties. All in all, the dress shirts, button-up vests and slim pants provided something for every urban male.

Last but not least, we saw the ethereal sophistication and glamour of Miriam Cecilia. Soft, flowy garments balanced body con, structural designs, producing dresses, gowns and tops we loved. For embellishment, she added metallic leaves on the bodice, neckline and skirt of multiple frocks, as well as pouf shoulders and ruching on several cocktail dresses and gowns. The detail was impressive and so was her ability to make the ladies swoon.

By Meghan Turner

Photography by Deal Paul

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Fashion Advisory Council Head Resigns

Wednesday, May 26th, 2010

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Gen Art Fresh Faces runway show during Fashion Focus Chicago 2009, an initative led by Melissa Gamble

Chicago Fashion Week can’t catch a break. Gen Art’s recent closure meant the end of the not-to-be-missed Fresh Faces runway show, and now Melissa Gamble, the head of Mayor Richard M. Daley’s Fashion Advisory Council, has resigned. Maybe better known as Chicago’s “fashion czar,” she has been with the organization since its inception in 2006 and has spearheaded the Chicago Fashion Incubator and the city’s fashion week, Fashion Focus Chicago. According to Crain’s Chicago Business, the organization will continue despite this upset. The Chicago Office of Tourism, the leading entity behind the FAC, released the following statement about Melissa’s departure and new role as a fashion business professor at Columbia College Chicago:

“Melissa Gamble has had an impressive impact on Chicago’s fashion industry and will be a great asset to Columbia College. Her five years of devotion to increasing the visibility and resources for local fashion talent has been instrumental in Mayor Richard M. Daley’s mission to elevate and educate emerging designers and independent retailers in Chicago. We’ve learned a lot over the past five years and we are currently looking at the next steps to address the growth of the fashion industry.”

The uncertainty of Melissa’s absence isn’t particularly good news for the Chicago fashion industry, but we hope the organization finds a new head who will command this post with fervor, innovation, and the utmost of dedication. We need someone who will lead our fair city’s industry in creative, dynamic ways that demonstrate our already proven fashion potential. Maybe a new face will give our fashion industry a fresh face.

By Meghan Turner

Photography by Billy Rood Photography

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