From left: designs by C/FAN, Audey and Miriam Cecilia

Fashion Focus Chicago kicked off Tuesday night in Millennium Park with its first 2010 runway show. The evening belonged to the Chicago Fashion Incubator’s talented resident designers, who, as usual, didn’t disappoint. Before the show, a line of the city’s fashion advocates—stretching to the corner of Randolph and Michigan—waited anxiously to get a look at CFI’s latest creations. Inside we found a tent bursting at the seams with fashion insiders and fashion lovers, all thrilled to be a part of the electric festivities. After taking our seats, the show soon began with a warm welcome from designer and Executive Director of CFI Lara Miller and Andrea Schwartz, the VP of Media Relations from Macy’s, the show’s host. Then, the lights dimmed and DJ Sye provided the energetic musical accompaniment to the designs of 13 residents from this year and previous years.

From left: designs by Kristin Hassan and Evil Kitty

Kristin Hassan was the first to present, once again proving her knack for very feminine womenswear. We saw lots of polka dots and girly accents like lace and tulle on elaborate dresses and gowns. From where we sat, the construction looked fantastic, creating form-fitting and interestingly detailed designs. She topped off each look with accents such as tulle flower brooches and a new pom-pom approach to the giant floral headwear we remember from last year.

Next up were Kate Boggiano’s California girls. Donning oversized sunglasses and a daisy behind one ear, models sported summery separates, dresses and jackets. The silhouettes were simple and often structural, balanced with lavish details like draped and ruffle collars. A colorful palette appeared on solids and a few prints. Overall, it was a collection for a serious woman looking to bring out her sunnier disposition.

We know and love Evil Kitty for her punk-chic aesthetic, and that’s exactly what she showed us. Using soft fabrics with hard details, she created pieces like a flowy, silk tank dress anchored with a studded leather belt. We saw a black lace cocktail dress with royal blue lining and a very chic, Audrey Hepburn-ish pale blue mini dress. Other designs included a hot pink bolero with large spikes protruding from the back.

From left: designs by Anna Hovet and Kate Boggiano

Agga B. is one of our favorite Chicago designers. Her designs are chic, artistic and relevant, making them highly desirable to stylish urban-estas who are no strangers to high fashion. This collection fused the sophisticate and the femme fatale with pieces such as a tulip skirt with a fan of protruding wings around the backside. Agga’s color of choice is black, though hints of pale pink lighted the tone a bit. To cap off the collection, we saw a to-die-for sleeveless fur coat and a magnificent black LBD with gold beaded sleeves and fur trim on the shoulders.

Anna Hovet stuck with the basics for her latest collection. However, she put a casual 80s spin on the designs. Always pretty and girly, we saw a pastel blue skort with an asymmetrical skirt, barely there hemlines and loose-fitting cotton tanks. There were flowy trapeze dresses and a form-fitting black jumper with open slits on the back. Overall, we saw references to decades past that are definitely still au courant.

Woven design elements was the universal theme for Nora del Bursto. Mostly solids, there were a few odd prints thrown in for variety’s sake–many of which didn’t feel particularly reverent to current times. However, we did love the clean lines and attention to detail. A simple white sleeveless cocktail dress stood out with a single geometric, crisscross shoulder. The same was true of a black haulter dress with a crisscross neckline. Another black number had woven detail that ran down the torso, seemingly requiring a surgeon’s steady hand and patience to produce.

From left: designs by Agga B. and Nora del Busto

For a few minutes, Audey took us frolicking through Millennium Park. First, we saw an empire dress with a green floral print and sunshine yellow tulle underlay. Later, the same print appeared on a floor-length maxi that was positively delightful. Her lightheartedness continued onto other tops and dresses that displayed animal and bird prints.

Though we often take notice of C/FAN’s work, she pleasantly surprised us with this particular presentation. She’s known for her luxe basics in solid hues, but she’s obviously expanding beyond that. Pieces we expected were cropped silk tops with plunging necklines and tapered trousers with lovely draping at the hips. The unexpected came from sheer silk dresses—both body con and billowy—displaying a sunset and lone tree print.

Killian Gui made it clear he loves his men’s dress shirts. One after the other, button-ups paraded down the runway, presenting white ones, white ones with black sleeves, plaid ones, two-toned ones and others. So, I’m sad to say, nothing we haven’t seen before…many times. We could see Killian has serious construction talent, but we’d love to see a tad more variety.

From left: designs by Nonnie and Killian Gui

Next was Alidade, who left us with thoughts of summer in Nantucket. From khaki skirts to sky blue shorts to gray cardigans, the designs were simple and preppy. The fit looked fantastic, but we couldn’t help but wish for a little more detail than trim on some sleeves and oversized pockets. There were a few designs that had us craving a little more oomph, but others were right on mark.

From Nantucket prep to 30s pin-up, Dottie’s Delights immediately cranked up the heat. Her vintage-inspired lingerie was both sexy and glamorous, with waist clinchers and garters, thigh-high hose and haulter bras. There was flair that included French lace, velvet and hot pink sequins. These are definitely underthings that are meant to be seen.

From left: designs by Dottie’s Delights and Alidade

After Dottie’s lingerie glued men’s eyes glued to the runway, CFI gave them one final menswear presentation: Nonnie. Appealing to manly men and metros alike, this collection gave us basics and vision that fused the past and present. He nodded to the 50s army cadet with browns and taupes and the latest trends with details like skinny ties. All in all, the dress shirts, button-up vests and slim pants provided something for every urban male.

Last but not least, we saw the ethereal sophistication and glamour of Miriam Cecilia. Soft, flowy garments balanced body con, structural designs, producing dresses, gowns and tops we loved. For embellishment, she added metallic leaves on the bodice, neckline and skirt of multiple frocks, as well as pouf shoulders and ruching on several cocktail dresses and gowns. The detail was impressive and so was her ability to make the ladies swoon.

By Meghan Turner

Photography by Deal Paul

Sometimes there’s too many fashion events to attend them all. Fatigue can hit in a big way, and then comfy PJ’s trump the glamorous stilettos, champagne and mingling. That’s why we’re lucky local blogs like Ryan Beshel’s The Bowtie Memoirs exist. The avid event attendee makes an appearance (bowie in tow!) at local soirees and later blogs about his experience for those of us otherwise engaged. From fashion shows to store openings to product launches, Ryan’s, 27, name is a regular on party guest lists and one of the friendliest faces there—not to mention one of the best dressed. If you haven’t been already, I’m pleased to introduce you to Ryan and his fabulous blog, so that when your PJ’s call your name, you won’t miss the show. Welcome to The Bowtie Memoirs!

Besides bowties and blogging, what else interests you?

People interest me. Be it people watching or just meeting new people every day, I find that you can learn so much about yourself from others. I’m also interested in sharing experiences with others. Mentoring the individuals who are finding their way in this industry gives me great joy. After all, I was in that same place not too long ago.

Are you from Chicago?

I’m from Gurnee, about 45 minutes north of Chicago. So, I have always had ties to the city. I went to Warren Township High School, and then I went to Columbia College of Chicago for about a year to study film and video. I ended up switching my major and finally earned a degree in Fashion Marketing and Management at the fantastic Illinois Institute of Art – Chicago.

How did you get into blogging?

It initially started as a recommendation by a few friends. I started attending many events and was finding that many people remembered me from event to event—thank you, bowtie! Eventually, I decided to start the blog so my family, especially my Mom, could see what I was doing here in the city. I also wanted to keep a sort of online journal that documented my life just before graduation and then after. In addition, I wanted to show what I saw of this city’s industry through my point of view.

What is your individual approach?

Well, I think relationships are so important in the industry, so I always like to touch upon who was at the events I attend. I’ll admit, I’m not a “serial blogger.” Sometimes I even miss a week or so. I focus on quality when I write my posts, and I always try to do my best to really describe what the event was like. Every now and then, I throw in a post called “Obsessions of the Bowtie,” where I highlight some of my favorite retailers, designers or products. My biggest focus is trying to expose the emerging, up-and-coming designers and products.

Who are your readers?

Many of my readers are already in the industry. It’s also those individuals who have become my friends and now check to see themselves in a post. Also, there are many students who are working their way into the industry that follow my blog. Then there is my family, who reads to see what I’m up to and check out the path that I am taking in Chicago.

Why do you think blogging is such a viral phenomenon?

Because it’s so instantaneous. When I started blogging, I would go to an event and then have a post up an hour after it ended. I was covering the event and then getting the word out about it before NBC.com, Time Out Chicago, CS, etc. Our world has learned that we no longer have to wait, and we’ve become inpatient because we have everything at our fingertips. It also offers an array of opinions, not just what the local news is telling you. Blogging offers the reader a way to connect with the writer at a more personal level.

What is your professional background?

Well, I am a new graduate, but I have completed an array of experiences. I was an editorial intern at Michigan Avenue magazine and worked directly with Susanna Negovan, the editor-in-chief. I have had the chance to work with some of Chicago’s smartest and most influential women, including the Barbara Glass of InFashion With Barbara Glass. Right after college, I worked freelance with another Chicago star and successful publicist Julie Darling. She taught me the ins and outs of public relations and introduced me to so many great people. Most recently, I interned for another fabulous woman named Sarah Burrows, the Marketing Manager at The 900 Shops.

What do you plan to do in the future professionally?

I’ve recently taken a job at a model and talent agency called Agency Galatea. I work for the Beauty and Fashion Director, Marie P. Anderson. In my new position, I assist in the daily management of models, comps and portfolios, photo shoots, runway shows, and the procurement of print work for talent. I also manage the website updates, online portfolios and social media.

What are your plans for The Bowtie Memoirs?

In the future, I’d like to look to my friends to be guest bloggers and offer yet another point-of-view on “making it” in Chicago. I’d also love to highlight even more innovative designs and designers. Keeping up with blogging with my schedule these days has been a challenge! Once I settle into work, I will have more time to really focus on the future of The Bowtie Memoirs. So, stay tuned!

What are your favorite blogs?

Of course I love Barbara’s blog and Style Admirer! I am also a lover of strong fashion images, and as cliché as it may sound…Yes, I love The Sartorialist! One of my favorite blogs is written by my friends Matt Fox and Enrique Crame III, and it’s called the Fine and Dandy Shop blog. Once you go to this blog, you’ll know why I love it so much! In the true spirit of my love for Chicago, I try to stick to local blogs when I do have the chance to browse. One of my Chicago favorites is The Midwasteland. I also enjoy Second City Style, The Coveted, and Darkroom Demons for some very cool photography.

What is your favorite Chicago boutique?

I have to admit: I’m a huge thrifter. I love to pass a few hours at Unique Thrift Store, Vintage Underground, Knee Deep Vintage, and The Brown Elephant. As for Chicago boutiques, I love The Goorin Bros. Hat Shop and Bonnie and Clyde’s. I also find some great things at Zara on Michigan Avenue. They have the best fits for tall, slim men! DNA2050 in The 900 Shops has the best denim in the city!

Who are your favorite designers, both international and local?

Internationally, I love Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. They both inspired me to get into fashion in the first place. McQueen had such an eclectic eye for menswear. Galliano, to me, is the king of the runway show. I remember watching his F/W 2007 show on YouTube and literally not being able to breathe. Locally, I love and respect the Chicago designers that I have gotten to know personally, such as my friend Christina Fan of C/FAN and Miriam Cecilia Carlson of M.C.C. I also enjoy the menswear by Donaldo Smith of Killian Gui, Jonnie Rettele of Nonnie Threads, and my good friend Maureen Refvem’s stunning pieces.

Do you have a tip to other bloggers looking to create their own online identity?

I would say to always know the intention of your blog. Do you want to make money? Do you want to fill a niche? Do you want to share a personal journey? Knowing the reason you are blogging will guide you in the right direction and act as an outline for your content. I would also say to do your best to stand out. With so many blogs on the internet, it is important to have a brand or logo or blog title that makes you different from every other blog. Finally: just have fun with it, share your passion and follow your dreams even if everyone around you thinks you’re crazy. After all, we all hold the power to be great!

Written and produced by Meghan Turner