Posts Tagged ‘Luis Antonio Rodriguez’

Art and Fashion Collide: SAIC NightWalk

Thursday, May 13th, 2010

Years ago, Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent disagreed about whether fashion is art. Karl said no; Yves said yes. Countless others in the fashion industry have argued this same idea, but a unanimous agreement isn’t a likely outcome. I personally waver between the two notions but tend to side with Yves. When I see work like what was presented at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago’s NightWalk 2010, I can’t help but see a walking art form, an artistic vision.

NightWalk was a show that forced the average fashion lover to expand his or her understanding of fashion design. After all, it can be so much more than what’s worn on the street or to a gala. The designs we saw last Friday night are an exclusive testament to the designer’s imagination and skill, not to the consumer’s taste and pocketbook. By negating conventional clothing norms, the student designers started with a figment of the imagination and brought it to life, as a painter does with a canvas.

Design Rachel Goldberg (BFA 2010). Top image: Designs by Bonnie Alayne (BFA 2011). Both photos by Robert F. Carl

The artistic nature of their work was accentuated by the venue: Griffin Court in the Modern Wing of the Art Institute. Towering projection screens, strategically placed bartenders, and dispersed cocktail tables encased the dramatically long runway, where we saw what felt like hundreds of designs. To start, designer Maria Pinto offered a tribute to the late Eunice W. Johnson, the creator and director of Ebony Fashion Fair, a traveling fashion tour of haute couture and ready-to-wear. We watched a short documentary praising her work, and then a parade of eight designer gowns from the tour whipped down the runway.

The next highlight was Gray Graham, a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist and SAIC alum. As the evening’s Legend of Fashion honoree, he presented 10 looks from his Fall 2010 collection. Gary’s mishmash of earth tones and patterns kept with his ruggedly chic aesthetic that nods to the past but keeps a keen eye on the contemporary. Leather, fur, chiffon, tulle, jersey and organza were woven through a collection of fitted jackets, tapestry skirts, chunky knits, patterned jacquard leggings, and more.

From left to right: Design by NightWalk Scholarship winner Kylee Alexander (BFA 2012), design by NightWalk Scholarship winner Soh Park (BFA 2012), and design by NightWalk Scholarship winner Michael Walls (BFA 2012). Photography by James Prinz

The final show belonged the students. Sophomores, juniors and seniors crafted elaborate and eccentric ensembles that often conjured double takes and gasps. The runway was a theatrical display that ranged from futuristic to regal, whimsical to gothic, distressed to glamorous. Along with their obvious construction skills, the young designers proved their ability to craft the outrageous – squirrel-faced masks, Candyland-like headwear, and stuffed animal trousers – and the breathtaking, like a tangerine velvet gown and purple chiffon ombré dress. There were hints of Alexander McQueen, Maison Martin Margiela, and Halston (a SAIC alum), but it was the clear-cut originality that kept eyes glued to the runway.

The NightWalk 2010 fashion show was an exhibition of talent and creativity. It’s designs like these that demonstrate how fashion is a way of thinking, a way of communicating, a form of self-expression, and an extension of the body. The students of SAIC proved that through fashion, we can find art.

By Meghan Turner

Tags: a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, Alexander McQueen, Art Institute Modern Wing, Bonnie Alayne, Chicago Designers, Chicago Fashion Events, Chicago Runway Shows, Ebony Fashion Fair, Eunice W. Johnson, Grace Lee, Gray Graham, Halston, Karl Lagerfeld, Kylee Alexander, Luis Antonio Rodriguez, Maison Martin Margiela, Michael Walls, NightWalk 2010, Rachel Goldberg, SAIC, School of the Art Institute of Chicago, Seth Meyerink-Griffin, Soh Park, The Art Institute of Chicago, Yves Saint Laurent
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